Project Unfinished Business: 95PGTTech's 1998 Cobra build...

[MustangChris]

close.... a perfect woman would have had a ham and cheese sammich on there, too!

[ThePope]

Cant wait to see this car driving again. Great build!!

[Dalamar]

I feel your pain, I've been messing with my seats and brackets, not as bad as yours, and it takes a while.

[95PGTTech]

No significant updates.  Still waiting on transmission bushings and some other small parts from Hanlon to get this transmission finished.  Have off Monday and Tuesday so I will try to go to Princeton at least one of those days.  I am trying to think up projects that are easily accomplish able to keep my motivation up.

Received new 4V harness today.  I needed some connectors.  I previously bought them all through Steve @ Tousley Ford.  His service is awesome but even at employee discount I'm still putting out $15 per.  $50 shipped for a spare harness to not only compare versus but have a complete set of intact connectors is more than worth it.  It is from a Mark VII, but so far looks identical to my stock one.

[95PGTTech]

Went and worked on the Cobra today for about 5 hours before I have to go coach track in the afternoon.  No massive progress, but I did get the garage and the house the garage is in cleaned up a ton so it's not so depressing to work in.  I haven't organized anything since I moved my tools out to this new job so it was good to push the car out and clean up a bit, I did end up laying on that floor a lot.  I got the car back up on four jack stands and level.  I'm a tall guy, so even doing normal things having it 18" up higher than ride height is a real help for my body.  I was going to give in and start a new project but luckily the tools I needed were at work.  I'm really trying to go over there with a set one or two easily accomplish-able tasks in my head and stick to them to try and get this thing finished sometime before I have grandkids.



I have an even healthier respect now for the stuff we have at work, including my own personal tools.  It took me over half an hour to put the car up using four jack stands, two scissor jacks (I broke my craftsman race jack...), and a bottle jack.  That would take me less than 30 seconds at work.

I installed the very first piece I ever purchased for this car today.  Remember what I said about getting side tracked?  I've had this car for what, three? four? years now?  Ford's choice of fasteners continues to baffle me.  One plastic rivet, one self tapping screw, and 11mm captured washer nuts.  WTF?










Speaking of the plastic rivet, consult these two pictures of my 98 Cobra and a customer's 95GT:



See the plastic rivet I'm missing?  You have to drill the head off to get it out.  When I pulled the front glass to tint the windows the FSM said you had to pull these weatherstrips off so I did.  I have a feeling not having this rivet helped accelerate the death of these weatherstrips allowing them to move around so much.  The new ones are very tight in there and in great shape and I'd like to keep them that way by replacing the rivet.  On the window regulator to glass connections in the door there is a metal rivet connection that I drilled out and when I put the glass back replaced with bolts and lockwashers, but this hole is not big enough and you have no access to the backside to do that.  Re-rivet it?  Anyone have a source for SMALL metal rivets?  All I have for my rivet gun are 3/16".

Also, anyone know where you can find the door weatherstripping and the C-pillar weatherstripping?  The next two pictures are where mine are falling apart.



How does one remove said C pillar without destroying it?

[95PGTTech]

No pics of the work underway tonight, just questions about the aftermath.  My ADD got the better of me and I started another project pulling my 3.73 gears out but the purpose was they are sold.  Sold them and the BBK LT X pipe I have been trying to sell for over a year now in trade for a brand new PC, which we've been needing equally long but funneling money into the car.  I'm basically getting $600 worth of PC for the two items and all I have to do is pay shipping, so it more than makes sense to jump on the deal while I have the chance.

I do have a couple questions from small stuff I brought home to tinker with (next day off is next Monday, I doubt this week I will be able to get there after work)...

These guys clamp around the rear axle and then the rear caliper mounting bracket bolts to it.  But the caliper mounting bracket also bolts to the weird shaped huge hunk of steel bolted to the end of the axle.  Why are these there, and are they really necessary?  Seems redundant, overcomplicated, excess weight to me.




Where does one find an e-clip retainer for the emergency brake cable (on the rear caliper)?  Local parts store?

Also, anyone in the NorthEast have a source for getting axle tubes welded?

[Duff Daddy]

Axle tubes welded are you looking to do c clip elims also, 9 inch ends or just the tubes? If your looking willing a drive *crash at my place* Talk to DMC racing. Pm me and ill hook you up with the info.

[95PGTTech]

I heard C clip eliminators leak so I was just planning the tubes.  But C clips are not allowed 10.99 or faster and I think I'm going to be pretty close to that with this setup and definitely over it the next step so I heard 9" ends are a lot better setup.  Depends on price I suppose.

[DFG_Pimpin]

I heard C clip eliminators leak so I was just planning the tubes.  But C clips are not allowed 10.99 or faster and I think I'm going to be pretty close to that with this setup and definitely over it the next step so I heard 9" ends are a lot better setup.  Depends on price I suppose.

most of the time, C-clip eliminators leaked pretty badly.. I'd recommend 9" ends, i wish i would have went that route.

[95PGTTech]

Didn't get over to the garage today but did work on some stuff I brought home.  Really slow at work, had time to disassemble both rear calipers and let all this stuff soak in parts washer all day, made for a lot easier time cleaning the stuff up.  Time to order up the rebuild kits and hardware kits and send the calipers and brackets off to powdercoat.









These are the brackets that bolt on to the end of the axles to give the caliper something to mount to, and the clamps that clamp around the axle and then the caliper bolts to.  I need to decide whether to keep the clamps, and which axle end I am going with.  If I go 9" big ends, it uses a different caliper plate so PCing this one would be a waste.


Although the FSM was helpful last night reading it over, I forgot to bring it in to work.  Luckily, we had this exploded diagram in Mitchell.  I got stuck after taking the caliper piston out and the snap ring.  The threaded rod in the center is held into the caliper by tension of the seal at the bottom.  Using some plastic vice grips so I didn't damage the threads, they pull right out with enough force and the rest comes apart like LEGOs.

[95PGTTech]

Guess what just arrived!



I'm going to have to bring some tools home tomorrow.  No one else on Earth could get these transmission bushings, Bob @ Hanlon not only got me ones that work, they match the part numbers on the ones I have!

[MustangChris]

very nice. sounds like you owe Bob a nice cold brewski!


please, pleeease take lots of pics for use green-horns when you put your tranny back together. :-)

good build man, and im excited to see it rollin'

[Duff Daddy]

I heard C clip eliminators leak so I was just planning the tubes.  But C clips are not allowed 10.99 or faster and I think I'm going to be pretty close to that with this setup and definitely over it the next step so I heard 9" ends are a lot better setup.  Depends on price I suppose.

They will leak but not too bad. 9" ends are nice but if your gonna be that fast why mess around. Drop out the tube, gut it, weld it, and get the 9's on there and do it right that way you dont have to wrry and Dennis (dmc) is an awesome dude.

[95PGTTech]

I looked him up and that's a hike.  I was quoted $150 by Precision Race Cars in NJ to add the 9" housing ends, weld the tubes, remove the quad shock brackets, and possibly add the anchors for a front brace.  I don't know much about the company but I do know Joe Gambino personally, he is an incredible chassis fabricator - I can't imagine the rest of the shop isn't near the same level.

Now I just have to find the housing ends, decide on the brace, and see what else is required to assemble.

[Duff Daddy]

Yea thats not bad, I ll have to catch up with my buddy 03 cobra with a solid swap and see what his set up is and whos ends and everything. DMC did the work for him and its awesoem but Ill get some info later in the week.

[95PGTTech]

Apparently Moser is the hot hookup according to other guys as you need the housing ends, those end plate things, and axles.  I have to keep reading but apparently NHRA requires Moser race axles as well as that requirement for no C clip sub-10.99.





I got two pieces ready to go to work tomorrow, as I don't have my press at home.  Oh well, it's not like there is going to be work there anyway.  Hopefully I'll have a chance to bang these out before lunch so I can load up and take another set afterward.

I think I already documented this, but the input shaft pocket outer bearing race gets sent into the backside of the input shaft.  You can either tap a race in with a hammer and a universal race driver set (nothing more than a handle and overglorified set of circular pieces of metal that catch the outer lip of the race) or press it in using the old bearing.  Being that you're loading up the inner race of a bearing and transferring that force to the cylinders and cage in this method, NEVER USE a new bearing to install a race, you're screwing the bearing up big time.  If you ever have to remove or install a bearing that needs to stay in good shape, consult where we took the trans apart, always acting upon only the inner race and never the cylinders or cage.  But if you have a replacement bearing, who cares, the old bearing makes a great tapered installation tool.



Flipped the input shaft over, and slid on the newly supplied input shaft bearing.  Interestingly, my complete rebuild kit lacked one of these (and as I later found out, the corresponding race).  The piece you see on it is the inner race from the old input shaft bearing.  Consult earlier where we cut apart old bearings to make installation tools.  I'll use the press on this in the morning.



Onto the bellhousing, or what the FSM calls the flywheel housing.  First send the main shift rail bushing home.  Bob @ Hanlon suggested I put some Red Loctite in with it.  I have it in my box at work, so I'll be patient and take the advice of a guy that gets calls from Panoz when they need a transmission.



Now there are two holes, and here is where you start needing a concept of how stuff works.  For the simple minded, one hole is bigger and goes through.  One hole is smaller and does not go through.  Big hole = input shaft.  Small hole = countershaft.  Lets start with the countershaft, these parts go in...the countershaft front bearing outer race and shim.



Put them in the hole.  These next two races, unlike most races, are built a little "loose".  Meaning, if you were to measure the outer diameter with a mic versus the inside diameter of the hole, the race is just significantly smaller so it drops right in, whereas in most cases the race is only .002-.003 for a press-in-only fit.  Expect them to just drop right in by hand, as they will need to be removed many times.  The shims below each of these bearings are what sets the endplay for the whole unit.



For the input shaft hole, you've got the shim, the race, the guide tube, o-ring, and seal.  Seal is already pictured inside the tube here.  I have to ask Bob tomorrow if this is the correct orientation as I disassembled the old one and no picture I have in the FSM documents this one.  It's similar to a rear main seal, so the question is which side out.  A rear main seal orientates spring side in (spring faces fluid) so I installed this one with the spring towards the inside of the transmission.  If you have the benefit of the specialty Ford press tool, don't put it in just yet, it will get in your way.  If you plan on beating this POS in with a hammer, it won't be an issue.



Install the o-ring onto the tube.



Install tube/o-ring/seal assembly into hole, then shim, then race.  I'll have to hammer the guide in at work after hearing from Bob, but afterward the shim and race will fall in easily.

[badass98svt]

great buildup bud.   So much for Carlisle '09, huh? lol

[95PGTTech]

The road to hell is paved with good intentions.  I did get what I planned done at work, bringing a few more pieces for the 2nd half.  I took some pictures but I have to hurry and get back to doing nothing.  Real fun with a brand new district manager and a brand new store manager visiting today.  /sarcasm

[95PGTTech]

Got a question answered today on another forum, that those C clamp looking things that reinforce the rear calipers are anti-moan brackets.  Supposedly I'll get all sorts of bad noises every time I hit the brakes without them.  It's a street car, I'll send them off with the other powdercoat stuff.  NVH is not worth removing maybe a pound from the rear of an already front-heavy car.

Brought flywheel housing and input shaft to work.  20 tons of power makes quick work.



Done.



Red Loctite, send the shifter bushing home.




Next was the guide tube.  A 30mm axle socket inverted with a 19mm impact socket made a great press tool that really sat very well on the inside lip of the tube.



I then used the same socket combination to send in the seal.  Note:  spoke to Bob @ Hanlon.  The seal installs with spring facing fluid (inside of trans).  The exploded transmission diagram and the FSM do not say which way it goes.  Just like a rear main seal, the spring side faces fluid.  This was my theory last night, but I wanted to double check before I sent it all the way down the bore and removal would require replacement, and more waiting.



Sent the mid shift rail bushing into the trans case with some red Loctite.  Previously I had pressed these two races in.



Hit a wall when I went for the rear shift rail bushing.  It looks like the same outer diameter as the others but seems not as thick.  It's definitely different, different part numbers on it.  The shift rail seems very loose in it, can't be right.  I have one bushing which *might* be salvageable.  We'll try that before panic.  While sitting there, annoyed, I was fidgeting and tried to spin the reverse idler gear in the case.  Locked tight.  Took the bolts out, reassembled, same thing.  Did that a couple times lubing and trying to figure out what was wrong, even went so far as to look up the torque spec and use a torque wrench.  Apparently the spring under the idler was binding in the housing, as I went to put it back together and wham, spun easy.  Took me a few more times of taking it apart to actually figure out what happened.  So if you're doing your T45, check and make sure that spring is perfectly centered and not binding on the housing.  That could have been pretty nasty had I put it in the car like this.



Made a few calls today - Strange, Moser, and Mark Williams about sourcing the stuff for a 9" rear housing end conversion kit.  Any other suggestions of companies to call tomorrow?

[Dalamar]

Who dented your tool box!!!






nice progress!

[95PGTTech]

Me...in transport to this last job, I dropped the entire bottom box on its side.  Completely f'd it, the bottom two drawers don't want to close right now.  An excuse to get a bigger box, I suppose.

Only my wife could deal with this...



Main shaft in



New rail interlock bolt




Countershaft



I am currently attempting to install the 5-R gear lever, C-clip, bolt, and shifter rail, but I have a question for Bob about that in the morning.  Lord, he must hate me.

[pilks]

Jesus Chris

This **** is insane
Good luck on the build and good luck with the new job

keep up the good work

[JDwhite98gt]

I always get so bummed out when I get to the last post.  This is by far my favorite build thread...it's like horsepower tv on spike only I have to read and there's always lots of pictures.    I know I'm a Raatard but I just enjoy this thread.  Keep 'em comming 95PG.

[95PGTTech]

12" of snow and still coming down today.  Luckily 4WD so I only had 10 minutes of brushing off windows and then the Escape did the rest.  Work closed at 12 due to lack of customers and pretty angry mechanics that we had to be there.


drove the rear shifter bushing home



torqued two bolts I installed yesterday and thread sealed them




put the clip on the fifth-reverse gear shift lever...I still wonder whether or not the tooth on that should engage the main shift rail, but I can't figure out why it would be built like that if it didn't




5/R shift rail



4th gear blocker ring.  NOTE:  I could not find my new 4th gear blocker ring.  Luckily, I threw nothing out.  For the time being, I installed the old one.  I believe the new one is sitting with the other blocker rings I am missing in the garage in a container of ATF.  I will try and swing by there tomorrow to pick it up.



Input shaft



flywheel housing



bolts torqued



setting up the dial indicator to measure main shaft endplay.  FSM calls for .009 (tight) to .020 for each shaft.  I currently have .006 on the main shaft.  No biggie, that's what the shims are for.  I really need to get that new 4th gear blocker ring installed as that will affect build height.  I think that will add another two to three thousandths, so when I take it apart next I'll add a shim that is .007 taller than the one currently in there.  I like to set all my stuff up real tight because in my experience tapered roller bearings are going to get a bit shorter in time.  If I am doing a build for a customer I usually like to see the car back after a few hundred miles to check the endplay again, it usually loosens up .005 or so and I'll put it back to full tight.  To me, they are quieter on decel set up real tight.

[95PGTTech]

Forgot to add this pic to the last line of the last post.  Measuring mainshaft endplay.  I remeasured today and have .004 to .005.



Flip it over and measure countershaft play.  Spec is .000 to .030.  I have .000.



Remove the bellhousing bolts and bellhousing.  Remove the two races and measure your shims.  I have a .033 main shim and a .039 countershim.




At this point I put in the new 4th gear blocker ring, I ran to Princeton after work to get it (it was where I thought it was, I didn't see it submerged).  I knew this would change my build height so guessing a new shim was kind of pointless.  On the countershaft, I suspected it may be set up too tight (preloaded).  Anything less than zero endplay is going to come up with a reading of .000.  So I took both shims completely out for the second measurements to get a baseline.



Reinstall races, reinstall flywheel housing, remeasure mainshaft endplay.  Remeasure countershaft endplay.  With no shims, I now have .038" main and .036" counter.




Ideally, I'd have liked a .029" main and a .035" counter shim.  That would just get me to the hair of specification tight on both while still having a viewable value on the countershaft.  I don't like seeing .000 as it does not tell you whether you are dead spot on or preloaded.  The best I could come up with from the shims I had in the kit was .030 and .036.




Reinstall races, reinstall flyhweel housing, measure endplay's again.  Final numbers were .010" endplay mainshaft and about a half tick countershaft, just barely readable.  I'll stick with these from here and see where we are a few hundred miles down the road.  You'd be surprised how much they can change sometimes.

[US Soldier]

build is still going good i see. like i have told you before man you do great work keep it up

[95PGTTech]

Got a ton of work done today.  Dropped the rear brake stuff off at the powdercoater, confirmed that my new PC is on the way, got the trade items boxed and tagged ready to go tomorrow morning, picked up some tools from work, called in my order of metal, then got over to the shop.

I pulled the rear apart the other day but didn't have the camera:






I started today by pressing the u-joints out of my old driveshaft so I could throw it away, I need to save the old yoke and pinion flange until I confirm the ones on the new driveshaft are correct for my trans and rear (which I just did at home).  I should probably also pick up some new u-joints since these were sitting outside.






Keeping on track of small projects I could start and finish in one day to keep this car moving along, I tackled that C pillar weatherstrip that was bothering the crap out of me.  Pulled the interior panel (1 phillips screw in the coathanger, remove the seat belt bolt cover, T50 torx seat bolt cover, pull and hear four christmas tree pins pop).



It was then loose enough I could pull the two weatherstrips for the quaterwindow out.



There are five 11mm nuts from the inside to loosen to remove the C pillar, but then it's still held in the front by the piece that runs across the roof and down the A pillar.  I couldn't figure out how to quickly remove it without damaging it, so I just quickly cleaned under it and worked by pulling it up.



A little bit of weatherstrip adhesive had it finally not looking like poop.



Tossed the interior panel back in, and *gasp* I finished something!



So I pulled the rear from the car.  Either going to upgrade this one with 9" ends and welded tubes or found a direct replacement on Corral.  Trying to work out details with him as it'd save me a few hundred and quite a bit of time/energy having mine done.  His is from a Fox, which is 3/8" shorter on each side, so I figured I'd run hubcentric spacers and call it a day.  My wheels aren't flush now or centered so I figure the addition of a PHB and spacers would solve both issues.  Anyone have any issues running a Fox width rear in their car?  His is set up for Cobra brakes but not quad shocks which I planned on deleting anyway.  Stock shock mounts and LCA mounts.  Since the Fox is narrower will my shock mounts not be correct?  Or is the width taken further out than the shock mounts?





And much to my wife's delight, I put about an hour into one of the skirts.  Some sanding, some hammering of the wheel wells, creative jacking and using the massive rear tires helped get it to where I think it's going to finish.  Still have a MASSIVE gap at the back but the rest I am pleased with.  Now I just have to devise a better way of mounting them than the previous owner so they don't come off again.  Then I can finish sanding and repair all these cracks in the fiberglass gel.

[greenscobie86]

Great progress once again! Any status on the motor? If I remember correctly, it is ready to be put together?

[95PGTTech]

Yep.  Shortblock is done sitting there.  Heads are in.  Just need to make some decisions on it.  I'm not sticking with it for very long, but how much do I want to put into it versus how much more is that going to net me when I sell it.

When I go LS, I'm going to try to sell motor/trans/clutch/driveshaft/ECU/wiring harness/longtubes as a package for either a GT swap or a kit car.  As it sits now, it makes maybe 375hp with the ported 01 head swap, degree'd cams, but stock bottom end.  The ported heads ($1000) were a miscommunication.  Wish that didn't happen.  I decided porting/shortrunner my 01 intake is not beneficial to resell for what it cost.  I can't do it myself like my 98 intake because it requires TIG welding.  It's small stuff left like do I use ARP head studs or new Ford head bolts or measure the old ones and throw them back in if they meet spec.  Main studs?  Can I pick up a set of 2003 Cobra rods and stock bore forged flat top pistons (10:1 or so) used?  Regardless, the motor does not come home until I finish the trans.

[DFG_Pimpin]

If you are going to use the stock axles, you can throw them in the other housing and it will be the correct length. The housing themselves from 79-98 are the same size, the 94-98 axles are just longer. the 99-04 actually have a bigger housign and axles.

And on a side note, do you have any links to putting a T56 with a cable clutch setup behind an LS1? And if you can use a Mustang T56 instead of a LS1 T56? I'm deciding if i want to go TH400 or T56 with my swap.

[95PGTTech]

As far as I know, I'd be the first person to attempt it.  I was going to use a T56 magnum, an aftermarket scattershield, stock cobra tob, stock cobra clutch fork, aftermarket pivot ball, aftermarket quadrant and adjuster, adjustable cable.  In my head, it works if you make the tab that the cobra has that retains the cable with the clip.  I would attempt to do it by welding a small tab on the aftermarket scattershield.

Feel free to attempt my idea.  I prefer the cable clutch, and I'm tired of seeing hydraulic clutch problem threads.

Not using stock axles.  31 spline Strange set up for 9" housing ends.  But going off your thinking, you think I could just order SN95 axles from them?

[DFG_Pimpin]

yeah, i would order sn95 axles and sell the fox ones and you probably wouldn't come much out of pocket. probably the same as it would cost you to buy spacers.

and the cable clutch setup has been done. My roommate showed me an article, but i haven't been able to find it again and i always forget to ask him about it. I think he used the mcleod bellhousing. I think since i already have a T56, it would save me some money compared to building a TH400 and buying a worthwhile converter.

[95PGTTech]

Just got a quote from machine shop.  The rods and pistons would cost me $450 shipped used.  11.17:1 static compression with the heads I am running.  Eagle rods rated for 750HP.  Probe Pistons he is supposed to get me more info on what series, what HP rating.  They are .020" over, supposedly good shape.  Called three machine shops within 3 hours that are reputable for modular motors, the only one that picked up the phone at 9:30AM was Lorenzo's again.  A bad taste in my mouth after last time but we'll see.  $650 for the work includes hot tank, overbore, torque plate hone, polish crank, balance crank.  I forgot to ask about hot tanking the old rods/pistons and if I could get that ear of my block welded.

If this was an all out build that I was going to keep I'd do all the bells and whistles - main studs, billet cam spacers, a full valvetrain and cams, Livernois 298 stroker, MMR rear oil seal support.  But I'm debating is this extra about $1200 going to increase the resale of my drivetrain $1200 or at least increase the likelihood that it sells?  Tough choices.  I would still need head studs, another $250.  I was just more clear about what I wanted this time so there are no unexpected expenses.  And he was willing to work with me as I want a real tight .002-.003 PTW clearance so this is a super quiet motor.  We'll see.

[95PGTTech]

Just got home and found my estimate from Metals Your Way.  Far cheaper than I expected, wow.  I'm going to try and swing over sometime this week to pick it up.  1 hr 28 minutes away and they're open until six, I'd have to leave work a bit early one day.  Maybe I'll get lucky with this snow.  We have 12" on the ground from a few days ago when they declared state of emergency (Sat).  Went into work through the storm only to sit around and get sent home at noon.  They're saying another 12-24" over the course of the next 30 hours.  Yay!  I have to stay up late tonight and pick my wife up from work in the Escape because it's our only 4WD vehicle (she finishes work at 3AM...).  The other two snowstorms we had so far happened on weekends when she doesn't work.

I've tried to be a good little boy and finish projects before starting more but I couldn't do it today.  My idea to mount the side skirts is to the jacking rails which aren't installed yet, which lead to this...

Went on a Home Depot run for some consumables.



Removed p/s seat



Neatly sectioned off the bottom most portion of the firewall blanket/sound deadener...still debating how I want to finish that area.




If you haven't figured it out yet, what I'm doing is starting on my through-floor-SFC install.  As a disclaimer, a lot of the ways I do this are very different from the ways other people do this.  I've done a few installs with my mentor Joe Gambino (Precision Race Cars) mostly doing the grunt work and him doing the real hardcore stuff, and three installs for customers of mine.  I even do things a little bit differently than Joe for aesthetic reasons.  Regardless of how you do through-floors, so long as you tie in the two subframes they undeniably work, and work far better than any bolt on or weld on traditional full length SFC.  This build for me differs in that it is on my personal vehicle, so it's a culmination of everything I've learned up to this point plus a few more ideas I stole from other fabricators and their styles.  Take my method with a grain of salt, and if you chose to do your own, don't be afraid to try something new, or flat out copy what I do.

I always start with a known quantity, the factory floor support beams, where most aftermarket SFCs weld to in the front.  It is pretty easy to find, just follow the detent in the floor insulation.  I drill a few exploratory 1/4" holes about 3 inches apart from each other.



On three of them I drill all the way through the floor support, so I can check how centered I am from the underside.



For the front two "stop points" I drill these from the underside.  Tire is removed to make my life easier.  I drill these approximately 3 inches above the bottom most face of the floor support, and I drill them as far towards the outside of the support as I can.



Now when you look from the inside, they make good reference points for exactly where I envision my SFC ending.



There are many different methods for what I am about to do next, but this one has always worked best for me.  Joe showed me this.  Regardless of how you do it, this is the time to remove the skirt as you are going to be making major holes in your car and there is no turning back.  Using a 1 7/8" hole saw, I drill those exploratory holes out and end up with something like this.



I would seriously suggest using something like Rigid's hole saw for anything metal.  Instead of relying on a allen key to hold the assembly together, it's a fully threaded body and then a positive lock on top of that.  You're going to be beating the crap out of this hole saw.  Also, expect some casualties.



Since I had pilot holes already drilled, it made no sense to keep snapping off brand new 1/4" drill bits @ $3 each so I made this pilot shank out of a wooden countersink bit and it's held up awesome.



More progress.



Keep in mind you are just removing a majority of the metal to see better.  I am using 1 7/8" because I intend on laying 2x2 .120" square tube into the factory floor support (channels).  They actually measure about 2 1/16" inner diameter.  If you drill or cut too large a hole, you get very close to the walls of the channel and you can start going through them easily.  You also make a large gap that you have to weld back together later.  Some people go straight to it with the grinder or cutter.  I find using the hole saw to get good visibility and hole-sawing a little undersize allows you to go back and have very straight cuts and then slowly grind away until the 2x2 just barely fits in there with some force.  Then you have a very easy time welding, and a better looking product in the end.  If you're off center just a bit with your pilot hole and you're using 1 7/8", you're okay because you still have 3/16" tolerance.  If you drill with a 2" or go straight to cutting, you better be spot on or you're going to make yourself more work.

Now after all that work fitting the seats, we begin removing the front seat support crossbar.



The front floor insulation just barely covers the lip of the crossbar, so in order to find the spot welds I had to remove some insulation.  An hour of hammer, razor, paint scraper yielded these results:



Another hour:



20 minutes:



Eventually all that sound deadener has to come up.  I will try to find a supplier of dry ice but it is very uncommon these days.  There is no easy way to do it.  If you have a bench grinder keeping the paint scraper sharpened every 10 minutes or so helps, but it's pretty much use a hammer to knock off the big stuff, then go back and scrape scrape scrape.  Then finish with 80 grit sandpaper.  Using the vaccuum as you go along makes it all seem a bit more organized.

Before I left, I did manage to get the front-seat-bar-to-door-sill bracket removed.  The cordless drill did not have any more battery in it for the rest of the spot welds on the front seat bar.




I did remove the transmission crossmember mounts from the channels (two 10mm bolt each) and I do need to start removing the brake lines and fuel lines (as well as d/s seat) when I start next time.  I've done this enough on SN95s that I knew what I needed to remove today with my limited battery.




side note 1:  apparently there is such a thing as a spot weld cutter which looks like a very small diameter hole saw and is apparently very effective.  home depot did not have any.  I wonder where to get one?

side note 2:  the wife cleared me to remove the rear seat so long as the interior panels were retained and it ended in a "finished" look.  which leaves us with the rear seat front support bar.  I wonder if I can drill the spot welds out of this and remove it.  that would make for a lot easier time when we continue the rails further back.

[1bad95]

very sweet build!  there is a dry ice supplier about 45 mins away from you in Harleysville.  i will see if i can find the name.  My apprentice school for work is right next door to it