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Author Topic: pwnage of the ricers (ROFLMFAO OMG SO FUNNY MUST SEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!ONE!!1111)  (Read 949 times)
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 06:53 PM #35
rebelyell
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yeah talk about suffocating your motor.

 :banana: dont have to worry about that one anymore. WE done did took care of all of them hehe. Do you still need MIL's?

yeah i do need the MIL's but there not completely necessary at the moment.  I do have to say that the CE light is really annoying but for now it can wait.

well that means your A/F ratio is Nancy Kerrigan up... so getting them is a great idea... Check Engine light is bad... Its not on to annoy you, its on cause somethings Nancy Kerrigan up... get the damn MILs and fix the son r sheep skin already :nonono:

as always; Thanks Greg for your input.  But I know exactly why the CE light is on.  The o2's aren't sensing the rear cats.  I need to get my solenoid and my heater core taken care of before I worry about the MIL's.

I'm pretty sure that if your CE light is on that your A/F ratio is Nancy Kerrigan up... which can kill your engine...

i'm not saying my A/F isn't off.  I'm sure it is.  I'm just saying that I know why the CE light is on in the first place.  O/R X-PIPE
NO STUPID! Try to listen close...

the CE light is on because your A/F ratio is wrong

Your A/F ratio is bad because of the x pipe...

A bad A/F could cause detonation or pre ignition...

which could germinate  up your engine... bad

so.oo... fix it before you germinate  it up
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 06:56 PM #36
rebelyell
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and stop doing **** half assed...

you wanna do something do it right...

You wouldn't buy just one head would you?
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 08:42 PM #37
AaRoN
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and stop doing **** half assed...

you wanna do something do it right...

You wouldn't buy just one head would you?

who the hell said i did anything half a*s?  because i didn't do it the way you would do it?  so...why is my a/f wrong?  because i have no cats.  hence, the CE LIGHT IS ON because there are no cats.
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:00 PM #38
Dalamar
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Dont be a stick Greg, not everyone has the same experience as you.
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A wise & frugal government ...shall leave men free to regulate their own persuits of industry & improvement,
shall not take from the mouth of labor - the bread it has earned.  This is the sum of good government.
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4. It was a rocket car, propelled by my awesomeness, powered by my manhood

timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:00 PM #39
rebelyell
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listen you don't understand...

If you're A/F ratio is bad... it doesn't mean... eh no biggy...

It means that the engine is not running correctly...

It means that you're timing is off

It means you putting extra uneeded wear and tear on the engine

It could germinate  up the valves, or even the whole head depending on how bad it gets...

The light is NOT on because you have no cats

The Light IS ON BEACAUSE YOU HAVE A BAD A/F RATIO AND THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING THE WAY IT SHOULD BE... the cause of this is that you have no cats...

You don't want to run rich or lean... its very bad... you want to fix it... as soon as possible...
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:01 PM #40
rebelyell
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Dont be a stick Greg, not everyone has the same experience as you.

I'm trying to tell him that the mil eliminators arent there just to make that light go away... theres more too it going on... trying to help him understand...

I'm really not trying to be a stick...
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:02 PM #41
AaRoN
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yeah i know.  i thought you were trying to say that it wasn't because of my o/r x that the light is on.  my bad.  

check out the note underneath the install directions (step #12)
http://www.uprproducts.com/PDF/_vti_cnf/96Xpipe.pdf
« Last Edit: December 08, 2006, 09:05 PM by SilverSol » Logged


timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:13 PM #42
rebelyell
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yeah i know.  i thought you were trying to say that it wasn't because of my o/r x that the light is on.  my bad. 

check out the note underneath the install directions (step #12)
http://www.uprproducts.com/PDF/_vti_cnf/96Xpipe.pdf


well the guy who wrote thats a ying yang...

in '96 they changed not only the engine from 302OHV to 281SOCH

they also changed the cpu from OBD I (On Board Diagnostic Ver. 1.0) to OBD II (On Board Diagnostic Ver. 2.0)

OBD II cars have O2 sensors (1 before the 1rst cat, 1 after)
OBD I only had 1 (before cats)

OBD I and older you wouldn't need the MILs

So it may be that those write ups are for a car older then '96

Regardless... I would suggest that you put that on the top of your to do list...

Not only will the light go out, but the A/F will be fixed, you will gain more power and gas milage... and you won't be at risk of messing up your car...
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timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:19 PM #43
Dalamar
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What greg said about the OBD II is correct.

the other way is to get a tune and have it turned off.  but that usually cost's more than mil's.
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A wise & frugal government ...shall leave men free to regulate their own persuits of industry & improvement,
shall not take from the mouth of labor - the bread it has earned.  This is the sum of good government.
-THOMAS JEFFERSON

4. It was a rocket car, propelled by my awesomeness, powered by my manhood

timeDecember 08, 2006, 09:19 PM #44
AaRoN
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will do Greg.  definitely at the top of my list of things to do.  i'm not even driving the mustang at the moment anyway.  maybe the write up is for pre-96.  i don't know.  doesn't matter cause i planned on getting the mil's anyway.
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