Stock982v
Member
I have a 98 GT , would a 96-97 tank be a direct swap? Or what needs to be modded.
Gas tank swap
- Thread starter Stock982v
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Direct fit, you need the tank (complete with pump and sending unit), the wiring harness that plugs into the pump and sending unit and youll have to unpin the connector and swap it with the 98 connector (we can talk about that if you get it), youll need the filler neck, and the two fuel lines that go from the filter and return line to the pump. Then youll need to wire around the ccrm to get rid of the variable speed crap and then you will repin the relay behind the glove box. Then your pump will work as factory and the fuel pressure regulator will do the regulating at the rail.
I did this to my car, by the way.
Stock982v
Member
I had a 97 tank but almost sold the car , so I sold everything I had for it. Smh gonna ask if I can buy it back. Lol
There you go, then you can get a 340 lph pump safe for e85 for about $75.
http://www.highflowfuel.com/i-20760...d-mustang-1994-1997.html?ref=category:1097310
Let me know if you order it, I have a discount code for it.
Let me know if you order it, I have a discount code for it.
Stock982v
Member
Alright thanks man.
It is! The 97 and down tanks are return style with baffles inside the tank and the pump and sending unit are two different parts. The 97 and down uses a single speed pump and not a variable speed like the 98 so your pump options are limitless with that setup. The 98 is return style but has the pump inside a basket like the returnless stuff and uses a variable speed pump. The pump options for the 98 are very limited and if you have to modify the basket by drilling holes in it and fitting a bigger pump in there then you run the risk of starving it for fuel if you are below 1/4 tank or even causing an extended crank issue (like I had) because the basket isnt holding fuel anymore.
Thanks, love learning something new!
BigBore96
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Very interesting. I did this swap years ago. Sort of. 96 cobra shell with 98 cobra ecu (aol3), wiring, and everything else with the 96 tank.
But I did nothing but drop in a 400lph pump and tune the car for my build but I do not recall messing with anything for the variable speed pump.
I dont and have never had issues but this has me curious to look into it just to check.
Do you by chance have the info handy on the ccrm to bypass? Id imagine i could also use my PRP to turn it off.
Hey, can you provide more info on how you did this swap? This a gonna be a long post…
I’m in the process of restoring my 98 gt w/ pi swap and vortech blower, the car hasn’t run in 10 years, but one of the problems I always had was fuel pressure dropping at high rmp. I had 42# injectors, rigged a 97 fuel pump to fit the basket and added a in line trex pump, but still had the issue, always assumed it was because of the pump basket. I was also running 97 rails with a aeromotive regulator, but was thinking about buying the stock rails back on in case my issue was cause by the regulator.
Since I’m restoring the car, I bought the walbro 255 drop in for the 98gt, removing the trex and putting the stock rails/regulator back, just to see if my problems go away.
Since then I found a crack in the filler neck, so been thinking about the swap, which led me to this post. Swapping the tank, filler neck and fuel lines is pretty straight forward.
Do you use 96-97 connectors and repin them to the factory harness or do you keep the factory 98 connector and repin the new pump connector?
What is involved in making the ccrm operate as a normal fuel pressure solenoid and remove the variable voltage crap? By doing this, would I use my aeromotive regulator instead of the fixed 98 one?
I will try to help as much as possible, it’s been a few years since I went down this road though.
Are you still using the factory computer?
The tank, lines, and filler are direct swap over. Then the wiring is really easy. You’ll have the tank harness from the 97 tank (make sure it’s good because the fuel pump connector likes to get loose and cause issues), then to make the connection to the car you can either change the connector on the tank harness using your 98 harness, or you can change the connector on the car to the 97 connector if you have that.
The harness part is really not that important. You could even just butt connect the wires. It’s not a big deal.
Now for the ccrm, we are going to have to dig back in to the wiring diagrams. I cannot remember the exact wires. There is a resistor in the fuel pump circuit that’s mounted inside the fender above the ccrm. That will be removed. Then we will bypass the ccrm and only use the relay that’s in the car behind the glove box. This relay is a 98 specific thing. It’ll get re-pinned to work like a normally open relay and it’ll cycle correctly with the key.
I’ll have to get out the diagrams tonight/this weekend and look it over.
For the regulator, that’s not going to matter either way. If you like the older setup with the adjustable regulator, then keep it. I like the idea of being able to adjust fuel pressure when you need to.
Mustang5L5
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Wasn't 1998 a transition year? Early cars got the return style before changing over?
I’m not 100% certain. I’ve worked on many 98’s and have never seen one that was returnless. They have all been return style, but the tank and pump assembly changed and looked like the coming up returnless setup.
All the 98 2v are return fuel system, but use variable voltage fuel pumps controlled by the ccrm (located in the front passenger fender).
It not really controlled by the ccrm. There are two relays in the circuit and a resistor. When the relays send voltage through the resistor, it lowers voltage to the pump. Essentially lowering the pump speed. So it’s not variable as much as just high and low speed.
