Fixing your SURGING IDLE!!! IN HERE!!!

mikey94gt · May 8, 2010

Very well could be the TPS sensor too... check it cold, then run it for a bit, drive it around, then check it again. if its different than you set it, the problem is obvious.

kennebellgt · May 8, 2010

that too

^ its one of those things though do dizzy last

mikey94gt · May 9, 2010

Yup! a quick tip for you people.... go to www.partsgeek.com http://... you can get the TPS sensors for $34...... Standard Motor Products is the best one... and identical to what Ford stocks at the dealership

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1994/ford/mustang/fuel_injection/throttle_position_sensor.html

tuffenuff1222 · Feb 2, 2011

i read this whole thing and it just made me not want to fool with my car....the first post said it will work but then a guy said it doesnt fix it completely. cant i have a direct answer so i will just have to do it one time.

mikey94gt · Feb 3, 2011

I had the TFS top end combo on my 94, and I was ALWAYS dicking around with the idle, even after a custom tune. ran great at WOT, part throttle, etc, just wouldnt idle. I had enough, im going to a newer computer (EECV) and coil on plug. Mind you, I had the engine in the car for 4 years, and 4 different EFI gurus messed with it, and never got it to run right. some have had good luck tho, and im not saying other people have had great results with the 94-95 computer, but my experience was much different.

Maximum95 · Mar 6, 2011

Thanks for posting this, although it was so long ago lol. Everything worked great for me! Except even after I elongated the holes in the TPS the lowest it would go was 1.04v, time for a new one!

95-stang · Mar 7, 2011

I have to agree with Mikey, i have a Q\H with a very good tune, the car pulls like a good 'un but i would NEVER mess with the 95 ecu ever again.
I have tried everything above and beyond the call to get this car so that it behaves as a normal car should but it just seems to have a mind of it's own, one day it runs perfectly well next day its farting and popping and not idling all that well the day after its fine again.
All i can say is this, if i ever bought another SN95 it would be a quad cam Cobra and it would get no engine mods whatsoever.

mikey94gt · Mar 7, 2011

95-stang said:
I have to agree with Mikey, i have a Q\H with a very good tune, the car pulls like a good 'un but i would NEVER mess with the 95 ecu ever again.
I have tried everything above and beyond the call to get this car so that it behaves as a normal car should but it just seems to have a mind of it's own, one day it runs perfectly well next day its farting and popping and not idling all that well the day after its fine again.
All i can say is this, if i ever bought another SN95 it would be a quad cam Cobra and it would get no engine mods whatsoever.

This is exactly why I am going with the EECV. Ive heard several engine tuners say that it is a pretty stable ECU, hope they are right. ill go blow thru carb if i keep getting problems.

Drew5.0 · Jun 1, 2011

I Just bought a 95 gt and im having problems with it not wanting to stay running after ive driven it..Like if i were to park it for a few minutes then go back out and try to start it..Help please

95-stang · Jun 1, 2011

The one thing that does get it somewhere near is to follow the base idle reset, although there are about 3 the one i used was the one thats listed on here:

Disconnect the battery's negative terminal to reset/clear the computer's memory. Leave it disconnected for 30 minutes.
Disconnect the plug going to your idle motor which is located on the front of your throttle body.
Reconnect your battery's negative terminal.
Start the engine, and set the idle to the ~675 with the stop screw on the of the throttle body linkage arm.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the plug on the idle motor.
Make sure all accesories (radio, blower motor, a/c, lights, etc) are off and start the engine.
Let engine run for two minutes.
Turn engine off and wait two minutes then restart engine and let idle for two minutes with all accesories on.
If everything was done properly the EEC-IV (read: computer) should have learned it's new idle.

Addermk2 · Jun 1, 2011

95-stang said:
The one thing that does get it somewhere near is to follow the base idle reset, although there are about 3 the one i used was the one thats listed on here:

Disconnect the battery's negative terminal to reset/clear the computer's memory. Leave it disconnected for 30 minutes.
Disconnect the plug going to your idle motor which is located on the front of your throttle body.
Reconnect your battery's negative terminal.
Start the engine, and set the idle to the ~675 with the stop screw on the of the throttle body linkage arm.
Turn off the engine.
Reconnect the plug on the idle motor.
Make sure all accesories (radio, blower motor, a/c, lights, etc) are off and start the engine.
Let engine run for two minutes.
Turn engine off and wait two minutes then restart engine and let idle for two minutes with all accesories on.
If everything was done properly the EEC-IV (read: computer) should have learned it's new idle.

That looks like something I posted once upon a time...

95-stang · Jun 2, 2011

http://fordmustangcar.com/repair-and-manual/how-set-base-idle

Yep its the same one also.

95PONIES · Jun 2, 2011

I've built and owned at least ten mustangs all early 90's though and had zero driveability issues. This is my first sn95 I picked up couple months ago and about from the jump it stumbles down low, after chasing around the problem it got starting issues...ended up being the dizzy. Ok bout a week later I got the same surging I see alot of you have, checked everything, tps,cleaned IAC, cleaned maf,replaced maf, set base idle, adjusted set screw, tried a different ecm etc. etc. I was ready to burn the damn thing it would surge to 2000 rpm no matter what I did!!! :BangHead: I've been a tech for almost 15 years and now work for a large family owned auto salvage yard so I know how to track down issues but I almost lost it on this one!! Lol...today I'd had it my brakes were smoking by the time I got to work today as the rpm's reached 3000 today the whole 20 minute drive!! so me and an old timer from work did the most simple tests no scanner, no voltmeter, just used our hands, pulled intake tube started car covered throttle body died instantly, took off IAC motor started car covered that with hand car died so we eliminated the idea of a vacuum leak. So we ended up taking a pepsi can poking two holes in it with a test light trimed it to cover the hole closest to the front of the IAC and screwed her back down with IAC plugged in. fired her up and what would ya know ....she idles smoothly at about 700 rpms, doesnt stick,no more surge, nothing but a smooh idle!! A band aid fix I know but after three weeks and trying any and everything else all of you suggested, It will stay there until next year when I finish rebuilding my 4 valve for a turbo project I plan....did I mention no CEL either since the IAC is still plugged in. :headbang:

mikey94gt · Jun 3, 2011

Mine wasnt as bad, but it would die if you touched the throttle and turned the steering wheel at the same time... weird. other times, it would just choke out at a stoplight.... and that was completely stock with 62k on it.

I dont even want to deal with the 94-95 computer anymore, I went to something else...

95PONIES · Jun 3, 2011

mikey94gt said:
Mine wasnt as bad, but it would die if you touched the throttle and turned the steering wheel at the same time... weird. other times, it would just choke out at a stoplight.... and that was completely stock with 62k on it.

I dont even want to deal with the 94-95 computer anymore, I went to something else...

Lol...I feel the same way, I even put a 91 Thunderbird ecm with a 5-Liter but that didn't work either. I'll drive it till fall and yank it out and build the 4-valve I got sitting on a stand, I'd rather have COP's and OBDII lol.

mikey94gt · Jun 3, 2011

I'm doing COP's and OBD2, but keeping the pushrod....

95PONIES · Jun 3, 2011

mikey94gt said:
I'm doing COP's and OBD2, but keeping the pushrod....

Interesting.......how? I was thinking explorer harness and ecm....is there a different way should I decide to keep the 5.0L as it would be cheaper than the DOHC. I always have available donner cars where I work, and my boss usually just gives me all performance parts! free! eibachs, magnaflow cat-back, 90mm k@n, pro 5.0 shifter, and 3 18x9 saleens got those for 50 bucks! even bought the stang from work for a steal just needed a trans got that there two, but I'm all ears for a coil pack over the dizzy set up!!

Addermk2 · Jun 4, 2011

this OBD2 and COP crap doesnt belong in this thread.

castine917 · Jun 4, 2011

then click the report to mod button.

evilcw311 · Jun 5, 2011

adder, please take no offense from this, but does someone piss in your wheaties every day or what???

i cant remember the last time i seen you make a joke on here. you seem to be knowledgable enough that you dont need to come on here to learn anything and if you hate everything that everyone has to say all the time then why the hell do you even bother coming on the forum at all??