OP
OP
That’s what I’m afraid of, thx!
Aeromotive out; OE in??
- Thread starter Daryl
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OP
OP
Interesting. So the Accel 24lb injectors that were installed when the motor was stroked are the same as stock? If that’s accurate, then wouldn’t a stock FPR work equally as well? Just spit-balling here…
ttocs
Post Whore
pretty sure it should be close enough as long as you get the pressure out the same. I would stick a gauge on the schrader valve to see what pressure you are running to the rail to be sure you get the right match but if I am not mistaken(I am NOT the motor expert here by any means) it is a stock part, it is not adjustable, so it should meet the inspection criteria and work. Your AFR will show if it off.
OP
OP
Ok, so I need to pressure test the FPR. Maybe VatoZone has a loaner??
And regarding the AFR gauge, if memory serves (without going back and rifling thru my thread on it), my AFR display is all over the place (basically just a light show) because I need to have an O2 sensor on both sides of the exhaust. Only have on one side currently. If so, I’ll need to have a bung welded in, add the proper O2 sensor and run lines connecting all of the above to the AFR?
And regarding the AFR gauge, if memory serves (without going back and rifling thru my thread on it), my AFR display is all over the place (basically just a light show) because I need to have an O2 sensor on both sides of the exhaust. Only have on one side currently. If so, I’ll need to have a bung welded in, add the proper O2 sensor and run lines connecting all of the above to the AFR?
ttocs
Post Whore
not sure vatozone has that but it is worth a try. It can be as simple as a fuel pressure gauge with a schrader valve on the front of the rail IIRC but it has been a minute since I had a stock rail on my car. IF they don't have one, they are not expensive and it is not a bad idea to have one on there to see if you do not have pressure one day if/when it will not start
How do you have the pressure adjusted on the adjustable unit if you do not have a gauge already?
How do you have the pressure adjusted on the adjustable unit if you do not have a gauge already?
AFR is going to bounce around a lot. It should hover somewhere around 14.5-15.2 at steady cruising, then it will go lower like 12.8-13.0 under wide open throttle.
Any of the parts stores will have a rental fuel pressure gauge
Any of the parts stores will have a rental fuel pressure gauge
weendoggy
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Yes, you're going to need both stock O2 sensors in with stock wiring. If you don't need your AFR gauge to run the car, just disconnect it and do what you need then put it back after. The engine MUST be stock factory wiring with everything connected and working. Even you EVAP must be working. If you do the changes, be sure to drive the car around city/freeway combo driving for a day or so before going to get checked. This will reset anything in the ECU. Same as disconnecting battery.
ttocs
Post Whore
so the car needs two 02 sensors to properly read the AFR of both sides of the motor to run correctly but it is not uncommon for an afr gauge just for viewing/confirmation to only connect to one sensor. It will only show the afr on the one side of the motor but again if it is just for ensuring things are not WAY off it is fine to just run one.
As they said it will change/dance depending on if you are at idle, on the gas, off the gas or inbetween.
As they said it will change/dance depending on if you are at idle, on the gas, off the gas or inbetween.
weendoggy
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Do NOT put it in series with the O2 sensor!! That's an immediate failure due to tampering with the emissions. If you want it in at the same time, put another O2 bung in.
RAU03MACH
Legend
I believe that is one reason I added a boost pump
To mine the kb let's you ajust fuel psi
Worked on mine but you would need to experiment
To mine the kb let's you ajust fuel psi
Worked on mine but you would need to experiment
RAU03MACH
Legend
Mind you my 95 dose not have a supercharger or turbo
OP
OP
Weendoggy,
Can you explain that first part, “Do NOT put it in series with the 02 sensor”? What does “in series” mean? Please forgive my ignorance. Thanks!
weendoggy
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Yes, no ignorance on your part. Series meaning in-line with a current sensor. In other words, wired into each of the same sensor wires going to the PCM. Like piggy-backing onto something. Basically can't do parallel either. Either way is tampering. Best is a separate bung. You won't get dinged for that.
OP
OP
So have a 2nd O2 sensor , via a bung, welded into the driver side. then wire it in with the existing O2 wires that go to the PCM?
weendoggy
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No, just put a second bung in whatever side you want your separate O2 gauge to monitor and be done. Heck, you can put a bung in each side if you want, just plug the one you don't want to monitor at the time. The stock setup uses two O2 sesnors and they are the only thing running to the PCM. In other words, you're just adding a gauge to the system, separately! No harm, no foul. Do not connect, wire, splice or anything to the stock PCM. I will add, if you have anything connected, whether it be pass through or not on the OBD connector (I think in your case you won't) that won't pass either.
For now, all you need to do is make sure both factory (replacements are ok) O2 sensors are in and connected to the PCM. Just remove your O2 gauge for now, it doesn't need to be there for inspection, but the two O2's do!
Oof, that’s a big one. You can try the black paint. It’s likely they don’t know what they are looking at so it’ll probably blend in better.
ttocs
Post Whore
do ya know anyone with a 3d printer? Have them make a little plastic case that goes over it and says ford or something like that....
garrittpwl
Active Member
Side note, I cannot fathom living in a state where I can't modify my own property. I can't believe thats even legal for the state to mandate
weendoggy
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It's NOT the regulator, it's the "adjustable" device on the top of the regulator.
