I’d estimate it’s about 2’ from the negative battery terminalI'm pretty sure you don't have a grounding issue on that segment. How far away is it from the neg battery terminal?
I’d estimate it’s about 2’ from the negative battery terminalI'm pretty sure you don't have a grounding issue on that segment. How far away is it from the neg battery terminal?
CobraJeff,"OL" is the typical reading that there is no continuity or in other words there is an open break in the cable or there's just no continuity because of immense corrosion.
The setting all the way to the bottom-right (radio wave looking thing) will give an audible beep to let you know there is any continuity at all. Real handy for tracing wires that snake through a lot of hard to reach places but you can still find the ends of them. Alligator clips extend the reach of the leads. Or you can wrap some wire around the tips of the leads and tape them up so they don't slip off.
that is what I was saying. When I measured the resistance of a 3 foot piece of wire in my garage I got .009-.01 ohms so .1 would mean it has 10x the resistance of my scrap piece.When you touch the two leads of the multimeter together when it's set to measure resistance, does the needle deflect at all? We need to first make sure that thing is zeroed if it's analog style which I think it is from recalling one of your earlier photos of it.
EDIT: disregard, it looks digital now that I skip back to page 2 of this thread.
Do you know what gauge wire it is? There might be print on the cable jacketing or there might not be. I might have to reverse my opinion on this if it's only a 2ft segment of wire. Should read zero. Been a while for me, but is there another ground cable going from battery to frame? Because if the engine (or worse, the battery) somehow is not pulling any continuity through frame material all of this might not even matter.
Yes, OEM pulley. “Newer” alternator. Never had this happen before.Honestly, it's probably your alternator. If it's not under-charging, it may be over-charging.
You said you saw 14.6v on the meter. Granted any meter could be off by .1v or so, 14.6 is high in my opinion. Do you still have the OEM pulley on the alternator?
No, light remains steadyWas gonna ask if the light ever flickers either at idle or when you hit the gas.
I had an alternator overspinning due to incompatible shaft speeds from a Coyote swap the first time around. That old 96 Cobra alternator couldn't take it. When at 4.5k rpm or over and I nailed the gas, battery light would strobe on and the battery would drain.
Yes, I bought it. Have to dig for the receipt and see about a warranty…Did you buy the alternator? Just wondering if it has a warranty.