Hello all, My car has recently started to make this grinding noise about a week ago. I got the oil changed by take 5 a couple of days ago. they used 5w-20 mobile 1 high mileage. here is a LINK to youtube that shows the sound today.
Engine grinding noise
- Thread starter brycelino
- Start date
RAU03MACH
Legend
I would remove the belt and do a short test run
Might be a pulley going bad
Or idler pulley
That will tell ya if it's engine or pulley
Might be a pulley going bad
Or idler pulley
That will tell ya if it's engine or pulley
Sounds like when my alternator went bad. Do like Jon said and pull the belt off. Spin everything by hand and see how it sounds.
RAU03MACH
Legend
Don't drive it
Just start let it run for a few seconds
To determine if a engine problem
If that noise goes away
It's a pulley
Just start let it run for a few seconds
To determine if a engine problem
If that noise goes away
It's a pulley
i took it to a mechanic and they said that it is the idler pulley and the tensioner belt. should i replace these myself ? was quoted 400 seems like a lot. also does anyone know where i can buy the part ? and should i replace the serpentine belt as well.
Yes! I feel like as a non-mechanical owner, doing this repair is a good beginners start. Removing the belt and 3 bolt tensioner is an easy way to get your feet wet so to speak. Your tensioner is most likely ok, its the tensioners pulley bearing that is giving up. You may not even need to replace the tensioner itself, just replace the pulley bearing. By doing this youll save even more money. $400 is a bit steep.
If you examine the belt and see cracks on either side of the belt, it needs replacing.
If you examine the belt and see cracks on either side of the belt, it needs replacing.
$36.00 for a new belt
$61.00 for tensioner that includes new pulley
Youll need some sockets and at least a 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive ratchet to release the tensioner to remove the belt.
$61.00 for tensioner that includes new pulley
Youll need some sockets and at least a 1/2" drive breaker bar or 1/2" drive ratchet to release the tensioner to remove the belt.
I also see the tensioner pulley itself has a replacement if you just want to swap only the pulley, saving more money
$30.00 tensioner pulley
Without me placing my hands on the car, its hard to say exactly what the noise is. Possibilities could be tensioner pulley bearing, idler pulley bearing, a combination of both....but if you remove the belt and hand spin either pulley, you can usually tell by the feel of the bearing if its bad or not. Normal smooth bearing will be linear and not sloppy feeling. A bad bearing will spin easy and feel sloppy and might make a noise.
$30.00 tensioner pulley
Without me placing my hands on the car, its hard to say exactly what the noise is. Possibilities could be tensioner pulley bearing, idler pulley bearing, a combination of both....but if you remove the belt and hand spin either pulley, you can usually tell by the feel of the bearing if its bad or not. Normal smooth bearing will be linear and not sloppy feeling. A bad bearing will spin easy and feel sloppy and might make a noise.
This is belt route diagram
Notice idler and tensioner. These will be the noisy candidates in question. Not a hard process to change out. Remove the belt, check pulleys by hand, replace accordingly
Notice idler and tensioner. These will be the noisy candidates in question. Not a hard process to change out. Remove the belt, check pulleys by hand, replace accordingly
Great info up there!
Definitely do the repair yourself. It would have been a great learning experience if you would have troubleshot this yourself as well. There is not much damage you could do here, and you’d learn how it all functions.
Definitely replace the belt as well, it’s easy and it’ll already be off.
Definitely do the repair yourself. It would have been a great learning experience if you would have troubleshot this yourself as well. There is not much damage you could do here, and you’d learn how it all functions.
Definitely replace the belt as well, it’s easy and it’ll already be off.
appreciate the insight i just got done putting the parts on and on the test drive the check engine started blinking. it stopped blinking but it check engine still persists. i will say my check engine light has been on before changing parts but it has never blinked
RAU03MACH
Legend
get one of those fancy code readers
Bronco2Fan
Active Member
Or any parts store should be able to pull the code for you.
Flashing typically means a misfire. Definitely need to get the codes read. Go over all your injector connectors and coil connections. Check all your spark plug wires too.
Well....any grinding noise?
RAU03MACH
Legend
good to hear
badass98svt
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No not at all
95opal
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I would suspect a coil pack with a misfire not a spark plug.
