1994 GT Build thread! (Better love story than Twilight)

Big_T · Nov 3, 2014

nitroram33 said:
Here's the video I was looking for when talking about the tensioner. Pay special attention to the 15 second mark where it enters wheel spin lol:

[video=youtube;5NnMuyifPA4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NnMuyifPA4[/video]

Great video!!! I guess it depends on how much power you plan on having, plus its the OEM tensioner so it doesn't really move just like everything else in the damn car! cant you buy aftermarket ones that can hold up to more power?

nitroram33 · Nov 3, 2014

Yeah, you get rid of the hydraulic crap entirely if you really don't wanna worry about it lol...

Big_T · Nov 7, 2014

Just want to clarify something with you guys. This kid is trying to sell me a fuel rail off a 4.6L engine. he thinks it will work with my 5.0L i told him it wont. Who's right?

chris91 · Nov 7, 2014

I know the BBK Fuel Rails are advertised to work on 4.6 and 5.0. Not sure the truth of it but check out the box.

Big_T · Nov 7, 2014

The ones he is selling me are Steeda fuel rails for $60 i think i should just buy them and if they dont work i can always sell them and buy 5.0l ones. but would be nice if anyone had more information on this. im getting curious now, i may be wrong! Jegs sells 2 different steeda fuel rails one for 5.0l and one for 4.6l

http://www.jegs.com/p/Steeda/Steeda...kcuMZTMPPDCpaw9Pp1dE78sIlnzZtywyekaAsU58P8HAQ

Big_T · Nov 9, 2014

So i have removed the cruise control an the smog vacuum lines on the passenger and driver side of the car. there is a vacuum line from the cruise control to the brakes. i can just disconnect that correct? i assume it was for the cruise control cancel when the brakes are applied. next i will be removing the brake booster and abs. anything that needs to be kept on the passenger side vacuum lines or the braking system?

Big_T · Dec 3, 2014

So christmas came early!

I got my subframe connectors and coilovers in. The rear shock brace is back ordered so that should be coming in soon. Now i'm debating if i should go with tubular k-member and arms or should i keep it stock?

nitroram33 · Dec 3, 2014

Tubular FTW!

ttocs · Dec 3, 2014

Big_T said:
The ones he is selling me are Steeda fuel rails for $60 i think i should just buy them and if they dont work i can always sell them and buy 5.0l ones. but would be nice if anyone had more information on this. im getting curious now, i may be wrong! Jegs sells 2 different steeda fuel rails one for 5.0l and one for 4.6l

http://www.jegs.com/p/Steeda/Steeda...kcuMZTMPPDCpaw9Pp1dE78sIlnzZtywyekaAsU58P8HAQ

If it doesn't fit yours hit me up I have considering upgrading.

Big_T · Dec 4, 2014

nitroram33 said:
Tubular FTW!

Yea but is it worth the extra $500?!

ttocs said:
If it doesn't fit yours hit me up I have considering upgrading.

I sent you a PM

nitroram33 · Dec 4, 2014

It's substantially lighter, and on the right end of the car too... I vote that it's worth it.

whiplash473 · Dec 4, 2014

Where the hell have you been?

Looking forward to seeing this some together with the last two pics.

Big_T · Dec 5, 2014

whiplash473 said:
Where the hell have you been?

Looking forward to seeing this some together with the last two pics.

Hey sorry for the delay, 'Tis the holiday season and my dad wants to help me with the project. So i'm flying him up here in January and we're gonna shave the bay and patch up all the rust spots on the car as well as weld in the sub frame connectors and rear strut brace so be expecting a lot of update and pictures mid January! once that's all welded, i will sent it off to paint. and put it back together.

In the mean time, all i need is 1.6 pedestal mounted RR and i can start putting the motor together. Anyone know someone who has some for sale?

whiplash473 · Dec 5, 2014

Big_T said:
Hey sorry for the delay, 'Tis the holiday season and my dad wants to help me with the project. So i'm flying up here in January and we're gonna shave the bay and patch up all the rust spots on the car as well as weld in the sub frame connectors and rear strut brace so be expecting a lot of update and pictures mid January! once that's all welded, i will sent it off to paint. and put it back together.

In the mean time, all i need is 1.6 pedestal mounted RR and i can start putting the motor together. Anyone know someone who has some for sale?

Oh now I'm really curious to see how this goes. Can't wait to see.

Big_T · Dec 14, 2014

So i finally got the engine up on the stand today and started dissecting it!

Once my Cam come in i will be putting it all together! It needs a good brake cleaner bath in the mean time!

95opal · Dec 14, 2014

Big_T said:
The ones he is selling me are Steeda fuel rails for $60 i think i should just buy them and if they dont work i can always sell them and buy 5.0l ones. but would be nice if anyone had more information on this. im getting curious now, i may be wrong! Jegs sells 2 different steeda fuel rails one for 5.0l and one for 4.6l

http://www.jegs.com/p/Steeda/Steeda...kcuMZTMPPDCpaw9Pp1dE78sIlnzZtywyekaAsU58P8HAQ

JFYI fuel rails on these cars have clearance issues with the dizzy. The best rails by far are from BBRC they have compensated for the dizzy and fit like a glove. I wouldn't mess with any other rails including a 4.6/5.0 type rail, youll be looking at a bigger headache than the rails are worth, Also the stock rails will support in the neighborhood of 500-550 hp so if you don't plan on going there theres really no need to change them. As far as the CC vac lines go yank them all and cap any open ends left over. Depending on how you go about removing the ABS you can either leave the stock lines and run an abs block or completely remove all your brake lines and run them strait to the brakes. Choice is yours. when I did mine I opted to run new lines everywhere but mainly because I did a brake line tuck and manual brakes.

Big_T · Dec 14, 2014

95opal said:
JFYI fuel rails on these cars have clearance issues with the dizzy. The best rails by far are from BBRC they have compensated for the dizzy and fit like a glove. I wouldn't mess with any other rails including a 4.6/5.0 type rail, youll be looking at a bigger headache than the rails are worth, Also the stock rails will support in the neighborhood of 500-550 hp so if you don't plan on going there theres really no need to change them. As far as the CC vac lines go yank them all and cap any open ends left over. Depending on how you go about removing the ABS you can either leave the stock lines and run an abs block or completely remove all your brake lines and run them strait to the brakes. Choice is yours. when I did mine I opted to run new lines everywhere but mainly because I did a brake line tuck and manual brakes.

So i tried to fit the 4.6 rails on my lower intake and it didnt fit. The spacing between the injectors was way off. not even close to working. so just in case anyone was wondering they dont fit. So if anyone needs fuel rails for their 4.6 let me know ill sell them for cheap.

But im keeping ABS and keeping the stock fuel rails and brake/ fuel lines.

lsmustangx · Dec 15, 2014

I am doing a ls swap in my 1997 mustang GT and have to use a Tube K member. I vote yes on spending the money to get on. I went threw UPR Products for mine. And for the $800 For a lighter front end, better handling, and more room to work around in the engine bay you cant beat it.

Big_T · Dec 15, 2014

Yea for mine it would be about $500 for the tubular k member and tubular a arms. That mixed with my coil overs i feel like would be great handling but i have a friend doing a coyote swap and hes keeping the stock k member. so idk...

Big_T · Dec 17, 2014

So more gifts in the mail, Just waiting on my new oil pump and my cam which has been somewhere in the mail for almost a month now haha once i get them in i can start all the engine work!