I have a bi directional scanner that was able to pull a diagnostic, but how can I test that?
New member and crank no start HELP question
- Thread starter RevJon
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ttocs
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I am starting to think it is the ecu, as long as it doesn't end up being a fuse or fusable link we have not found..... Have you checked if the ecu has power? Constant, true ignition(stays on while starting/cranking) and ground?
I'm beginning to wonder that aw well. Remember I did pull this code (does this make sense?):
C1805- mismatched pcm or abs/tcs module.
Also, thinking about the crankshaft sensor (getting a bunk aftermarket one and need to try an oem one).
First, How would I go about testing the ECU? Super appreciate your time and insights all!
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ttocs
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well first as I said make sure it has all the power and ground connections it needs.
cobrajeff96
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This might be the factory immobilizer function at hand.
Mustang5L5
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Those fuel trims are crazy, but until you get the engine running I wouldn't read too much into it..yet.
You are communicating with the ECU, so I would think it's ok. In the past when using ForScan to play around with programming instrument clusters, you get a whole bunch of Commnication errors if something isn't initializing properly. Since you aren't seeing those errors in the modules, i think your ECU is talking fine but that's my opinion
I would see if oyu can rent, borrow or Amazon-buy an injector noid light kit to verify your fuel injectors are firing when you crank the vehicle. If they are, i would still look at the FPDM/Fuel pump since you have active codes for a fuel related issue. I wouldn't be surprised if this is a dead fuel pump.
Are you still getting this code? I didn't see it in your latest pics? If so, can you take a pic of the label on the ABS module? It will either say "GT Traction" or GT ABS". Does you 2000 have the traction control off switch next to the shifter?
You are communicating with the ECU, so I would think it's ok. In the past when using ForScan to play around with programming instrument clusters, you get a whole bunch of Commnication errors if something isn't initializing properly. Since you aren't seeing those errors in the modules, i think your ECU is talking fine but that's my opinion
I would see if oyu can rent, borrow or Amazon-buy an injector noid light kit to verify your fuel injectors are firing when you crank the vehicle. If they are, i would still look at the FPDM/Fuel pump since you have active codes for a fuel related issue. I wouldn't be surprised if this is a dead fuel pump.
Are you still getting this code? I didn't see it in your latest pics? If so, can you take a pic of the label on the ABS module? It will either say "GT Traction" or GT ABS". Does you 2000 have the traction control off switch next to the shifter?
I hope you’re right that it is not the ECU. I don’t wanna go through that headache with the reprogramming of a new one! Yes, I used a noid light and it didn’t work so I’m dealing with no fuel/no spark combo.
That being said I did run an AC test in my crankshaft position sensor (turning ignition on—not run—and turning the crank pulley by hand and got nothing coming out of it. The camshaft sensor tested fine. Although the mechanic replaced this part I’m willing to bet he used a cheap aftermarket part. Although im not getting any codes for that and found this corroded wire (pic below) I’m
hoping this will solve the problem. I’ll keep y’all posted!
Is that exposed copper on the top wire? It looks mashed flat too. Might be the picture. Id remove the looming and inspect some of that wire anyways. Repair and Replace the loom then black tape the heck out of it! Age of our cars and the wire harness is deteriorating
Edit, I read you mentioned corrosion on the wire. Get that crap fixed man!!!!
Edit, I read you mentioned corrosion on the wire. Get that crap fixed man!!!!
ttocs
Post Whore
yup that little bit of corrosion adds resistance and most of the sensors/senders are nothing more than variable resistors in one way or another(temp/location/ect) and the resistance added from the corrosion can throw it off
cobrajeff96
Well-Known Member
If I'm not mistaken, that sensor wiring will have an overfoil acting as a drain to ground on the other end. Though I don't think that it would cause a no start condition, a fault there would have potential to confuse the ECU. Just saying.
Mustang5L5
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Pass side of the engine bay at the rear. There's a connector with a bolt in the center. The wiring for your injectors and such passes through here. Make sure this is good and tight. I've seen these loosen up. Might want to inspect and clean while you are at it.
This connector here
This connector here
ttocs
Post Whore
Good advice, it might not be a bad idea to go ahead and disconnect it, inspect the connections and then put it back together nice and tight. and while you are there, open up the plastic covering and just give a visual inspection of the harness as far as you can follow it.
UPDATE: Well, it fired up! It was the crankshaft position sensor. The mechanic put in a cheap part and it must've failed after 15 minutes of driving, coupled with the wiring issue. However, it has developed a rod knock...sigh...like I said only my luck, lol. BUT it's running! A HUGE thank you to everyone on this forum! Y'all rock!
Wait now......it might sound like a rod knock but could be something else Ive witnessed it myself!
A friend 99gt fprs breached and plumbed fuel into the intake through the vac line. The crankcase filled up with gas too from all the continuous starting. Not knowing what was wrong of course. We finally figured it out. Long story short
After chaining oil a few times and idle time in-between, the engine knocked. It was an obvious rod knock sound too. After roughly 2hrs idle time and hammering on it driving around a few times spanned over a few weeks the knock vanished. He to this day beats the hell out of that car and it runs just like it always had before. That was roughly 12yrs ago
A friend 99gt fprs breached and plumbed fuel into the intake through the vac line. The crankcase filled up with gas too from all the continuous starting. Not knowing what was wrong of course. We finally figured it out. Long story short
After chaining oil a few times and idle time in-between, the engine knocked. It was an obvious rod knock sound too. After roughly 2hrs idle time and hammering on it driving around a few times spanned over a few weeks the knock vanished. He to this day beats the hell out of that car and it runs just like it always had before. That was roughly 12yrs ago
I remember now
He was actually driving the car to a mechanic to have the engine swapped and during his drive there it stopped knocking
He was actually driving the car to a mechanic to have the engine swapped and during his drive there it stopped knocking
weendoggy
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That's the shielded wire for RFI noise. It's there for a reason. Yes, leave it. Also, glad you got it fired up. Nice to know once you find the problem.
So should I change the oil or ride it out and see? The car has been sitting and cranking on it all this time, your story makes sense. It’s also smoking like crazy on the passenger side where the knock seems loudest. Video of noise is below.
ttocs
Post Whore
Sometimes that braided cable needs to be grounded on one end to do what it is supposed to. Does it look like it has become disconnected?
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