Theft flashes when I get into the car, as it dings. When I put key in all the light go on including theft. When I turn ignition to on ( not start) the theft light goes off. What’s a way to determine pats issue or not? Thanks
New member and crank no start HELP question
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The first thing to try with a problem like this is to prime it at the air intake. If it starts you know you have spark and are not getting fuel. No start, you have an ignition problem. Get a spark tester from Harbor Freight. I always consider myself lucky if I have an obvious problem like this instead of some mystery intermittent problem.
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ttocs
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how do you know you have enough fuel pressure?
Have you done any work around the ecu/pass kick area recently? A harness might have come loose while you were doing the work
Have you done any work around the ecu/pass kick area recently? A harness might have come loose while you were doing the work
Mustang5L5
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If it was a PATS issue the theft light would blink VERY quickly. Car will crank, but not start. The Theft light going out indicates the system has a good Key and should allow the car to start.
So, P1237 is a code regarding the fuel pump delivery module which is located driver's side trunk area behind the interior trim panel. If the FPDM detects a fault, it will duty cycle the pump to 75% and run it all the time until the error is corrected.
DO you have a scanner that can read live data here? If so it may be helpful for troubleshooting althoigh not being able to start the car may hinder you. I have a 2000 as well so i can take a peek later to remind myself which PID to look at (fuel pump duty cycle, fuel pressure as well as other fuel related signals) which might be of use to you to troubleshoot this. You can also try bypassing the FPDM by jumping out the connector which powers the pump directly and see if the car starts. If it doesn't that points to the pump as something we want to look at.
Possible issues would be an open or shorted FP power feed circuit, a short in the fuel pump itself, a locked fuel pump rotor or the FPDM is bad itself. Can also be a wiring issue too.
Does the car have cats? If not, have you tried starting fluid? The fact you aren't getting spark puzzles me. I figure starting fluid would just cut to the chase and confirm spark or not, just in case the noid light isn't working right.
As for the ABS, can you take a pic of the label on the ABS module at the front pass side of the engine bay down below? Wondering if someone tried to replace the module and put the wrong one in.
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Fuel pressure is 52psi and I did notice this harness unplugged but can’t find the other end for it on the drivers side. The owner before me put in an amp for the stereo so my guess is that it’s for that? Pic below
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Mustang5L5
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I wouldn’t rule out ignition or other factors yet, but with the FPDM codes I would chase that down as well.
Here’s the wiring diagram for a 2000 Mustang FPDM. You’d need to unplug and use two jumpers to bypass the FPDM.
Here’s the wiring diagram for a 2000 Mustang FPDM. You’d need to unplug and use two jumpers to bypass the FPDM.
Mustang5L5
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And here are some of the PIDs that will show pertaining to fuel pump and pressure. It’s a little harder to troubleshoot this given the engine won’t start. The “N/A” values do read with the car running
This is great, thank you! So it looks like I connect 2&3 and 9&10 to bypass the FPDM. Am I reading this correctly?
Oh and important detail from my original post is that the car died while driving and hasn’t started since. So ignition hasn’t made sense to me…
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Mustang5L5
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Just for the hell of it, try to start it with the accelerator depressed down all the way (flood clear mode).
So it looks like I connect 2&3 and 9&10 to bypass the FPDM. Am I reading this correctly?
Mustang5L5
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Yup. It's a motor so it just needs power and ground.
Id probably test #9 for 12V, but i'm pretty sure on page 24-8 its going to power. But that should run the fuel pump 100%
Id probably test #9 for 12V, but i'm pretty sure on page 24-8 its going to power. But that should run the fuel pump 100%
Getting 12v to pin #9. Also did a bypass and still no start. Here’s a video I took of trying to start it with starter fluid. You’ll see that it jerks a bit more but still won’t fire up…I’m at a loss here…what do you hear?
Have you verified if there is spark? Easiest way like cobrajeff suggested:
If the engine died during driving and not starting thereafter, maybe some electrical connection went bad. Wire broke, shorted, fuse blown, terminal deattached, ground lifted....
Verify first if there is spark at all.
Just tested one cylinder (and then another) before the rain came and the spark tester showed there was no spark either…now what?? Could it fail both spark test and noid test? What could cause it to fail both?
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ttocs
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What can cause the injectors to stop firing short of the pats system? Is it possible that if some other sensor is reading wrong that it shuts them down?
So you have no spark and injectors not operating. It must be some central issue probably. Like the ECU detecting (or not detecting) something causing it to cut spark and fuel. Like pats.
I noticed in your fuel pump video that your car is chiming rapidly atvthe beginning. I don't know New Edge cars, but I never heard this before. Anyone familiar with this rapid sound?
I noticed in your fuel pump video that your car is chiming rapidly atvthe beginning. I don't know New Edge cars, but I never heard this before. Anyone familiar with this rapid sound?
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