Anyone putting down 300rwhp or more N/A......

[MustangMatt96GT]

I love how everyone ignores JR when he tells them the stock stall is 2700....

the stock stall in our cars flashes at 2400 - 2700....anything below a 3500 stall in a 4.6 is worthless.

Listen to the man.


You guys are idiots if you put a 2400-2600 stall in a 4.6 mustang

especally when he works on trannies for a living IIRC...

 

[97stanger]

I just searched and found that our stock stalls are 1700-1900. That is also what my tuner has told me. I highly doubt my tuner and TCI would tell me to go with a 2800 stall and that would be downgrading....that just doesn't make sense. ESPECIALLY TCI.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I just searched and found that our stock stalls are 1700-1900. That is also what my tuner has told me. I highly doubt my tuner and TCI would tell me to go with a 2800 stall and that would be downgrading....that just doesn't make sense. ESPECIALLY TCI.

I'm not going to beat my head against the wall, read this, do what you want. You tuner is a tool, TCI is stuck in 1985 when that's what car's had, but w/e. The damn thing will FLASH to about 2400, hell, you can footbrake one to 1800. But, as you wish, like I said in the thread below, if you want a 2400 converter, I can sell you a brand new one real cheap.

http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=27720.0

 

[97stanger]

I just searched and found that our stock stalls are 1700-1900. That is also what my tuner has told me. I highly doubt my tuner and TCI would tell me to go with a 2800 stall and that would be downgrading....that just doesn't make sense. ESPECIALLY TCI.

I'm not going to beat my head against the wall, read this, do what you want. You tuner is a tool, TCI is stuck in 1985 when that's what car's had, but w/e. The damn thing will FLASH to about 2400, hell, you can footbrake one to 1800. But, as you wish, like I said in the thread below, if you want a 2400 converter, I can sell you a brand new one real cheap.

http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=27720.0


I'm just curious, then approximately what range stall would you recommend for a boosted auto car j.r.?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I just searched and found that our stock stalls are 1700-1900. That is also what my tuner has told me. I highly doubt my tuner and TCI would tell me to go with a 2800 stall and that would be downgrading....that just doesn't make sense. ESPECIALLY TCI.

I'm not going to beat my head against the wall, read this, do what you want. You tuner is a tool, TCI is stuck in 1985 when that's what car's had, but w/e. The damn thing will FLASH to about 2400, hell, you can footbrake one to 1800. But, as you wish, like I said in the thread below, if you want a 2400 converter, I can sell you a brand new one real cheap.

http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=27720.0


I'm just curious, then approximately what range stall would you recommend for a boosted auto car j.r.?

You still have just stock PI cams right? If you have a good suspension and tires, you'd be pretty happy with something in the 3600-4k range. Especially once you upgrade your heads and cams

 

[97stanger]

I just searched and found that our stock stalls are 1700-1900. That is also what my tuner has told me. I highly doubt my tuner and TCI would tell me to go with a 2800 stall and that would be downgrading....that just doesn't make sense. ESPECIALLY TCI.

I'm not going to beat my head against the wall, read this, do what you want. You tuner is a tool, TCI is stuck in 1985 when that's what car's had, but w/e. The damn thing will FLASH to about 2400, hell, you can footbrake one to 1800. But, as you wish, like I said in the thread below, if you want a 2400 converter, I can sell you a brand new one real cheap.

http://www.sn95forums.com/forum/index.php?topic=27720.0


I'm just curious, then approximately what range stall would you recommend for a boosted auto car j.r.?

You still have just stock PI cams right? If you have a good suspension and tires, you'd be pretty happy with something in the 3600-4k range. Especially once you upgrade your heads and cams

I will be swapping to custom grind blower cams before the converter goes in. And also, will be running my stock non pi heads.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Ideally, you'd dyno the thing, and make the perfect converter, but that's not really practical for most people. Most of us need to pick the converter we are going to need, and grow into it. About 3600 should get you right into full boost directly off the line, then all you have to do it find traction, point, and shoot.

 

[98mstanggt]

Seem like I missed the party lol.......I'm confused as hell about which stall to run on my car now...... Ok J.R so what u say is a good stall for my setup......... And simplyme0484 we basically got the same setup... Which stall is u running again and its good with your setup

 

[Mr Jones 4.6]

I agree on reading that our torque converters have stalls of 1700-1800, but the way to test a trans to get an idea of what stall it has is to take and from a put the car in second gear and start to take off and after just a second floor it and watch the RPMs. They will jump up around 2500-2700 RPMs. Darrin at Bc-Automotive told me this trick to see what stall you have. 1st gear his such a tall gear the gear factor doesnt allow the motor to load up the converter before it gets out o the stall range.

I have experience with two other cars that have had converters put in them. Both were Lincoln MarkVIII's and one had a 3600stall converter and the other had a 4k stall converter. The 3600 stall car had nothing done to it besides intake and muffler removal and the car ran a 14.5 in the 1/4mile all day long then he installed the 3600 stall converter and never touched anything else...promise!! He ended up knocking his time from 14.5 to a 14.1 and last winter he supposdly broke that time for his car too but I'm not sure the times.

Now for the car with a 4k stall, we have not had a chance to run it yet but driving around town you could tell a slight diffrence for when you take off it goes up about 200-300 more rpms than normal but as soon as the converter locks up in 3rd and 4th you would never be able to tell that it was a stall converter. Now when you hit the gas the rpms in his car shoot up to about 3200 and if you stand on it the rpms climb to about 3500 pretty quick and the car gets up and goes. I must I have driven the cars and the fun factor goes through the roof.

Both cars have B&M tranny coolers and the temps did not go up any more than I can see from with the stock converter.

Picking a converter is more or less what you want, I have been told and showed that a 3600 stall is a very daily driver friendly converter and unless you purposely punch it you will not tell a difference.

As for the 4k stall you will notice a slight difference as in when you put it in gear the car doesnt roll on its own anymore unless your on a perfectly flat surface, which is good for those with cams because the car will not die sometimes when putting it in drive.

Feel free to ask any questions about anything else with these converters that i did not cover. I will be getting you some video this coming week so you guys can see how the stall acts under different amounts of throttle.

The biggest noticeable difference that I really felt is when in second gear but if your just taking off normal you will not notice the difference.

Hope this helps. I myself hopefully at the end of august will be installing a 3600 stall converter in my car. Dont know who 'm going to use but I'm thinking either BC-Automotive or Circle-D.

 

[Mr Jones 4.6]

Sorry fo the long post....lol I didn't realize it was that long until I went back to see it after I posted.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I agree on reading that our torque converters have stalls of 1700-1800, but the way to test a trans to get an idea of what stall it has is to take and from a put the car in second gear and start to take off and after just a second floor it and watch the RPMs. They will jump up around 2500-2700 RPMs. Darrin at Bc-Automotive told me this trick to see what stall you have. 1st gear his such a tall gear the gear factor doesnt allow the motor to load up the converter before it gets out o the stall range.

Yep, that's how you see it flash. Most people confuse what they can footbrake it to to the stall speed. And alot of people, and companies out there, are just stuck in the old days.

Seem like I missed the party lol.......I'm confused as hell about which stall to run on my car now...... Ok J.R so what u say is a good stall for my setup......... And simplyme0484 we basically got the same setup... Which stall is u running again and its good with your setup

I don't know what your setup is, but if you are N/A, you'll need more converter than a FI application.

 

[justinschmidt1]

hey JR...how much would it cost to get a 3600-4k converter for my car?

 

[Mr Jones 4.6]

hey JR...how much would it cost to get a 3600-4k converter for my car?

I would like to know too? Because I would love to have a 12 sec ride, which I strongly feel that if I get a 3600 stall converter and a good set of Drag Radials I can get right there if not well into it.

Thanks

 

[98mstanggt]

O yeah my setup is N/A thats the way i like it anybody can go fast with F/I LOL
but my setup is

Ported pi heads
pi intake
274h Comp Cams
Full Exhaust
Tune
and basically all bolt ons

So which stall u think

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I don't want to jack the thread guy's, lol, I am supposed to be getting straightened out on my sponsor status shortly, and will be offering converters, transmissions and vb's to you all, with a lifetime warranty of course. Feel free to pm me any questions/requests in the meantime.

To answer you guy's quickly though, converter price depends on the application. For instance, Justin, you need a stronger converter than Mr. Jones. I can do his N/A converter for 700 + shipping, whereas I'd need 850 + shipping for your's. Of course you can say I only want the 700 dollar option, but I don't recommend it for your car, and absolve myself of warrantying it if you insist.

But the legal crap and warranty info can come when I get my own subsection, which should be whenever Matt get's back from vacation, or the moon, or wherever he went.

98mstanggt, I would recomend a 4-4200 stall for you.

 

[98mstanggt]

LOL I thought mind u spreading a lil knowledge in my thread plus a stall is kinda my next install so I need 2 know as much as possible but I always thought stalls that high was for Drag cars or something...... And higher stall affect gas or anything

 

[justinschmidt1]

O yeah my setup is N/A thats the way i like it anybody can go fast with F/I LOL
but my setup is

Ported pi heads
pi intake
274h Comp Cams
Full Exhaust
Tune
and basically all bolt ons

So which stall u think


lol...anybody can make a car fast n/a too...but with the same money you can have a faster car with f/i therefore the reason im blown rather than pi heads and cams

 

[Jrgunn5150]

LOL I thought mind u spreading a lil knowledge in my thread plus a stall is kinda my next install so I need 2 know as much as possible but I always thought stalls that high was for Drag cars or something...... And higher stall affect gas or anything

You have torque converter lockup in gear's 3 and 4. So the stall speed isn't noticeable, say for instance, you are cruising at 45 mph on a city street in 3rd, obviously you are not at 4000 rpms, BUT the beauty of a modern trans is that it will lock the converter at a cruise, effectively neutralizing the stall speed, you'll be at 2400 or whatever you cruise at normally. That said, city mileage will still suffer a bit, probably 3-4 mpg, hwy mileage should remain the same, assuming you are not an on and off the gas driver, in which case the converter would lock and unlock repeatedly.

The reason for the higher stall, and higher than what most people are used to (like your local shop, hot rod guy, dad, etc), is that you have a mid weight car with a small cube engine. With little cubes, the only ways to go fast are boost it, spray it, or spin it. You have chosen to spin it, but you can't make that 300 rwhp acrossed the rpm range, you've chosen fairly large duration cams, which again, lend themselves to rpm, not low end grunt.

Basically you need to get the car up to about 4500 rpm before it really start's to move out, whereas Justin, for example, only needs to get up to about 3500 before he scoots off. So you can either leave it stock, in the gearing, and the converter, and just have a sluggish dog that takes off like you hit the nauzzzz button at 4500, or, you make changes to hide the car's lack of bottom end. Use it's strengths and cover the weaknesses. With a 4.10-4.30 gear in your car and 4k converter, it will hit just below where your powerband really starts so quick, no one will ever know it makes less power than stock below 3500, lol.

 

[98mstanggt]

Justinschmidt1 Dont get me wrong I dont have anything against F/I cars at all I'm just a N/A guy which is why i posted this thread....... Just put it like this if somebody put two of the same mustangs side by side one was 500hp N/A and the other 500hp F/I I'm picking the N/A one thats just me but I mean eventually I'm end up with a blower anyway lol...... If not a stroker motor them stroker engine be putting out some crazy numbers ha ha but yeah how much power u putting down....

 

[98mstanggt]

I can't qoute from my phone so bare with me ha ha...... But yeah I agree with what u said but yeah them are rpm cams n yeah I'm gone lose some low end power but yeah I got some 3.73 gears idk how they compare to 4.10 or 4.30 but I got some ha ha